Where the pavement ends

Adventure #7

I am determined and strong, yet also terrified. My hands are shaking, my heart is racing, my stomach is doing somersaults. It is almost as if my body is screaming out not to do this. Yet something deeper whispers, “You can do this, go for it”.

I breathe deeply, slowly, again and again. Methodically, I put on my armored pants, thick jeans, and riding boots. I pull a long sleeve shirt over my head and zip up armored jacket. I put on a full-faced helmet and safety gloves. With all the bulky gear, puffing up my shoulders, strengthening and reinforcing every joint on my body; I am dressed like a superhero and feeling like a fraud. Underneath it all, I am sweating and can feel my heartbeat throbbing up my throat, pulsing at my temples. I look over all the safety checks; tire pressure, turn signals, brake, engine oil, and it all checks out. Nausea washes over me. I begin to wonder “Will this last forever?” There is only one way to find out and that is riding through it.

The engines turns on, sounding like a lion’s roar to my delicate ears. I slowly, cautiously mount the bike, hoisting my leg over the seat. The kick stand goes up and the bike clicks into gear. Nothing left to do but ride.

The clutch goes out, my hand rolls on the throttle and it goes off. I heave a heavy sigh of relief, without stalling, the bike slowly rolls down the driveway. Pulling out on the road, checking to the left, right and behind several times. I follow Chris to where the pavement ends and the real adventure begins. We are making our way towards Kapanai’a bay, a beautiful and sacred bay in Hawaii, said to be an original canoe port of King Kameamea. Not readily accessible, this journey is nearly impossible without 4-wheel drive high clearance vehicle or an off-road bike. Not only is riding new to me, riding dirt is entirely new. Every twist and turn, every drop and climb is deeper into the unknown.

Riding through seaside forests that give way to open grassy meadows, above the sky is clear blue, without a cloud in the sky. It is breathtakingly beautiful. Slowly gaining confidence, I am able to relax and enjoy the ride.

Below, the road is a mess of slick mud, scattered with large puddles that cover the road.

I try to convince myself “this is fun, a new challenge, I love mud”. It doesn’t work.

I clear the first two puddles, feeling another boost of confidence. I navigate through the third and move to the center of the road in attempts to meet up with my partner. Suddenly, the bike slips out of my control. Before I can even think about putting a foot down I am sent sailing off of the side of the bike into the mud. Shaking off the shock, exasperated, I flip up my visor to breath like a fish on land, gasping for air.

Leaning over, I hit the kill switch, turning off the engine . Looking in the face of my partner I see his eyes open wide, mouth open, as he rushes towards me.

We work together to wrestle the bike back up to standing. Knowing to use skills over strength, I have my back up against the bike, digging my heels into the ground and pushing with my legs to leverage the bike back up. My feet slip out, the bike drops again, spewing mud everywhere. We again make a valiant effort to prop the bike back up and succeed.

It takes a moment for my heart and breathing to calm down. We drink water and discuss whether to continue.

I want so desperately to be a competent rider. I know logically that no-one comes out of the womb riding a 2-wheeled motor-powered machine, but can’t I just learn these skills out of a book of something?

The answer is no.

Despite all of the reading I have done on the skills required to ride all different kinds of conditions, there is no way to fully learn these techniques without practicing them in real life, which (in my case at least) seems to mean falling down and getting back up.

We decide to motor onward. The dirt road continues to drop, as it makes it ways to the ocean. I am ecstatic to finally arrive at the bay. It is gorgeous, and I take pleasure in the shade. Removing a bulky layer, we sit perched atop of a cliff over looking the deep blue water as it kisses the rocky shore. Ice water and snacks are magic elixirs to reviving my energy.

Looking south, there is a trail that disappears in the forest. We don’t know where the it will lead, but it looks enticing and we are in full-on adventure mode.

Rejuvenated, this adventure sparks something inside of me. I am actually doing it, chasing down my dreams into the realm of reality. It can be scary and overwhelming, but it also gets easier. Now it is becoming fun, exciting, empowering.

I am in control of the bike, navigating through mud and grass, over gravel. It is exhilarating. The wind breezes through me, gently cooling my skin.

The journey turns and follows a path along the cliff. Grass sways in the breeze as white caps speckle the water. Riding the contours of the shore high above the ocean. As I navigate through tall grass, shifting over a small berm, my bike goes out from under me again. My partner is further ahead, out of sight and earshot. I stand up with a grunt. I am left alone, 425 lbs of machinery laying at my feet.

Sitting in the dirt, my back pressed to the seat, I brace myself against the bike. Digging my heels into the soft ground as best as I can, I push with my legs, using all of my might. Wild, tribal calls cry uncontrollably out of my mouth. My feet slip in the mud, the bike barely budges. I reset and try again. As I push the bike upright, I look up to see Chris running towards me. He is too late to help, but just in time to witness my great victory. I send a fist of celebration high into the air.

After a few moments of breathing, I am ready to ride again. I am just as nervous and hesitant as when I first started the bike.

Riding through the overgrown trail, deeper into the unknown, the embarrassment and fear I carry from the last fall slows me down. I am moving slower than ever, remaining entirely in 1st gear.

Soon we reach a fork in the road. It is unfamiliar and I pause to discuss our next move with Chris. He points out what is familiar, the way the road turns. This is where we made a first turn, we are nearly back to where we started, having completed a loop. Relieved to see the light at the end of this tunnel, I motor onward back up to the main road, where pavement awaits. It is still not without fear. I worry about other cars on the road, distracted drivers, stalling out at a critical moment and being side-swiped or rear ended. Yet, I know there is solid traction and we are so much closer to home. Returning my brain to the present moment, I take in the surroundings; dirt roads that I have already ridden today, ruts along the center, safe dirt edges to travel on, the sun still shining, my body balanced on the bike, hugging the gas tank with every turn, I am here and breathing.

We reach the road and make it home nealy unscathed. Despite falling, I am unhurt. The fear of falling has fallen short of reality. A smile washes over my face. I drop to a deck chair and let all the weight of worry fall to the floor.

Suddenly this experience feels invigorating, empowering. Looking forward to riding again, it is clear that with experience comes skill. That is what I am after.

The truth is that fear can have this crippling, debilitating effect that stops me in my tracks. It can also be an opportunity to push beyond my comfort zone, opening new horizons. By breaking through fears I am exploring new worlds and exciting experiences. This bring me closer to where I truly want to be, with new freedoms and possibilities. It is not without fear, but rather in spite of it that these adventures ensue.

Mauna Kea

Adventure # 6

The highest point in Hawaii, the volcano Mauna Kea, towers at 14,00 feet above sea level.

My partner Chris and I make our way up and over Saddle Road. Looking towards the mountain we only see a pile of dense clouds, wrapping up the volcano if it has gone to bed for the night. I remain optimistic. Weather changes rapidly there, and you can never really tell what the mountain will bring. We meet up with our friend Becky in Waimea. Here the debate begins. Is it worth it to risk altitude sickness, climbing 14,000 feet, and driving for hours to see only clouds? My partner is wavering, saying it isn’t worth the risk. Becky seems far more optimistic, looking up weather and calling the park office. She reiterates that you really can’t tell what the visibility at the top is like looking up from the bottom. To truly know, we have to go see for ourselves. I agree and decide it is worth the chance to see the mountain covered in snow, watching an epic sunset from the summit. So Becky and I set off, on an adventure destined to the summit of Mauna Kea. We are fast friends with lots to talk about and the drive up to the park entrance seems to fly by. As we round the base, reaching the other side of the mountain, the sky completely clears and opens up to beautiful blue skies. Our eyes widen, opening to the clear view of the mountain that looms before us, just asking to be climbed. The truck turns up the entrance, quickly gaining elevation. Each twist and turn in the road brings us higher and higher up towards the sky. The view is astounding. In places there rests a layer of clouds. The sun dances on top of them, as we look down from above. In the distance, Mauna Lao, and Hualalai peek out as if to say hello. There are spaces where the view is crystal clear and even the valley floor is visible, houses and buildings now only disappearing specs. The view is endless, the horizon reaches farther than our eyes can see.

We stop at the visitor center to acclimate to the new elevation, resting at 9,000 feet. There are many people gathered here in a buzz of excitement. The air is drastically different, thin and cold. We bundle up in our winter jackets, hats, and pants. Becky and I enjoy hot cocoa and the solar telescope that is set up. Looking to the sun it becomes clear how alive it is, watching it move with solar flares and sunspots.

We clamber back into the truck and head to the summit. The road becomes rough, there are signs warning visitors that 4-wheel drive is necessary to proceed any further. Becky kicks the truck into gear and we lurch forward up the rocky road. We gawk at the astounding views, squealing with delight to be in such a magnificent place. The sun drops lower to kiss the clouds as we climb even higher towards the summit,rising above the clouds.

When we arrive, there is again a gathering of people eager to see this tremendous sunset. The sky ignites in a fiery spectacular that reaches in every direction. The sun’s last moments cast reds, oranges, pinks and purples across the horizon. A soft light reflects back to the horizon, painting the clouds purple, illuminating the snow with a pink glow.   The air is freezing, the wind whips across the summit, tingling my face and sending shivers down my spine. For a moment I forget that we are in Hawaii. We watch with bright eyes, and wide smiles, relishing in this moment.

The last rays of light seem to linger on for hours as we make our way back down the mountain. We talk excitedly about taking this leap of faith and catching this astonishing experience. It is so easy to bail out on your plans, to avoid trying new things. It is also just as simple to say yes, to try something new and unknown, to take a chance.

Back at the visitor center we take a walk away from the dim lights up to catch a glimpse of the natural night sky. Following a path that leads to the top of a pu’u, there are stars every which way you look at the night sky. The air has dropped in degrees, but our excitement level has increased yet again. We stumble in the darkness to find a shelter made of rocks piled in a circle. It is the perfect place to lounge under the stars, protected from the elements. Becky is well prepared and presents us with sushi, seaweed rice crackers and thinly sliced provolone cheese; a delectable dinner for the mountain side. We continue to talk effortlessly, delighting in these delicious delicacies. Shooting stars zip across the night sky as we sit marveling in its beauty. Gratitude for a tremendous experience washes over me.

Happenin’ Places in Hilo

Adventure #5

Climbing down a steep staircase we find ourselves entering into the black abyss. A giant hole opens into the earth. Once filled with molten flowing lava, it is now sits as an open cavity in the earth. The ceiling looms above us, though with only dim lights we can not see it. This Lava Tube is high, wide, and left untouched. Another marking of mother nature’s magnificent power and force, another reminder that the land is constantly changing and growing, sometimes even fiercely here.

Lava Forest State Monument allows us to stroll through lush forests bursting with life. Throughout the walking path are ancient lava flows which once engulfed the land, left standing are odd looking obtrusions jutting out of the earth. These “lava trees” are molds of trees once engulfed in hot lava, now simply empty space held by cold, hardened lava. It is remarkable to see where once were the trunks and limbs of trees, now empty casts. Centuries old, yet I am viewing them with for the first time and wondering how many people have seen these before? What have these places endured? In the recent lava flow of 2018, they were nearly destroyed, I wonder too what other new places are being created with the new flow. It is incredible to explore such fascinating places.

One of my favorite sights is a waterfall. They are magnificent, beautiful, and powerful. The sound of raging water roars from a distance, Rainbow Falls does not disappoint. It is easily accessible and we meet many families gathered who are also gushing at the sight. Places like these certainly bring people together.

We follow the trail as it climbs way up to the source, the top of the falls. It continues further into a forest of the mighty Banyan Trees, unlike anything I have ever seen. It as if we have been dropped in another world. With far too many limbs and growths to count, each tree winds itself into the others, interlacing gracefully with each other. As I gaze upon their astounding beauty, it is difficult to see where one tree starts and another begins. The limbs are smooth and rounded, gently sloping away from the massive trunks.

As night falls, we fall into the sweet sounds of “Sisters of the Sea”, a 5 piece group of women musicians. They take turns leading their own original songs. These are heartfelt and inspired tunes, and this group is amazing. This is not the only music we are fortunate enough to hear, we also make out way to the astounding grounds of the Kawani resort where there is an entire festival of women performers. There is a huge range of styles and genres, yet always a theme of authenticity and gratitude. There are thought provoking lyrics and stories about oppression and liberation, growing up and getting empowered, the earth and the sky. I feel alive and inspired by such incredible artists.

Further down the coast, Uncle Robert’s night market brings a quaint and quiet coast vibrantly alive. It is bustling with sights, sounds, and smells you would not believe. The place is packed with people who are eager to catch the incredible live music, food shops, and craft vendors. The high energy is palpable, surging through the dance floor. People of all ages gather and share in the joy of this exuberant, loving community.

Part of this little getaway was also getting some serious yard work done. I am learning so many new skills, and now find myself chainsawing trees and cutting branches. It is of course not without fear and always with all the proper safety gear. This experiences pushes me outside my ever-expanding comfort zone, challenging me to grow. With the adventure mentality I am ready, willing, and thus-liberated.

One final errand to complete on the way out is to get the oil changed on the truck. We find a great deal, at Sears of all places. I am actually surprised to find them still in business. As we went in to pay, there was a full on lion dance happening in celebration on the Chinese New Year. I think to my self “Only in Hawaii, I am so grateful to be here”.

These are a few of the happenin’ places in Hilo.

Buddha Point and Leche de Tigre

Adventure #4

As a majestic blue sky graces the earth, sunshine pours over the sandy shore of Lava Lava beach. I open the map and laid my finger down. What catches my eye is a place called Buddha point, and it perks my interest. My enthusiasm grows to a point of great determination for reaching this destination. This also sucks my partner along for the ride, and from here we embark on another adventure together.

We follow the coast line over sandy shores, basking in ample sunshine, talking effortlessly. The path gives way to unforgiving lava fields, sharp and hard. Nothing can deter me when I have set my mind to something, and this is no exception. We enter fields of white coral smashed into pieces as if it had been chewed up and spit out by a sea monster. They lay broken and bleached from the oppressing sun, a stark contrast to the black landscape we previously trekked.

We make our way around another point and another bay to find the resort.

Statues scatter the cliffs as we walk the last stretch of land to Buddha point. Several large sea turtles clamored up to sure to bath in the afternoon rays.

There is something incredibly remarkable about this staggering statue of the Buddha that sits on the edge of the sea. It is seems to portray wisdom, giving a place for quiet reflection and meditation.

I am nearly skipping on our way back to Lava Beach, reveling in all of the astounding views to take in. A golden light sets the shore aglow as we dive into the water. This is refreshing and invigorating, a much needed reprieve from the heat of the strong sun.

The adventure continues as we make our way to the Queens’ Marketplace. There, in the center of the shops, we are moved by the sounds of Leche De Tigre. This band brings world rhythms in a lively performance infused with rock influences and much Aloha. The energy reverberates throughout the entire crowd, it brings everyone together in a shared experience. As a breeze sweeps through the commons, cooling the air, we stay warm by dancing the night away. I could not imagine a more perfect way to end the day.

Hiking to Mo’okini Heiau and into a lava tube

Adventure #3

Dirt paths carved into the earth where the cliffs meet the sea led us to an ancient spiritual ground. Transported back in time, left to contemplate the strength and fortitude of the ancient Hawaiians, I was astonished. They moved each stone by hand from 9 miles away to build these towering temples that reach upwards to the heavens. If a rock was dropped along the way, it was discarded, no longer sacred. Perched high above the ocean’s roar, this site was often used to make offerings to the gods, including thousands of human sacrifices. Built in 480 AD, this is oldest temple on the Hawaiian islands. We are fortunate to have access to this site today, without fences or blockades. This site remains largely untouched, free from graffiti, defacement, or trash. This is a testimony of the good that remains in people, the ability to protect and preserve sacred ground and important historic places. There are still offerings of flower leis and shells being left, an indication of peoples’ continued reverence and respect for this sacred site.

From here, we mounted the bike and made our way to the Hamakua coast. As we rode winding roads through ranch lands and over rolling hills, we made our way into unknown territory to places we had never been before. We passed cattle pastures and open fields. Soon we noticed a gaping hole in the earth. This exposed lava tube appeared to beg to be explored. We dismounted the bike, mounted our headlamps, and headed in. We twisted and turned, following the lava tube and trusted our instincts, as we continued on an exciting adventure. Enticed and lured further in by the thrill of the unknown, we cautiously stepped deeper into the belly of the earth. At one point the ceiling dripped water, an unnerving sight. As imagination ran wild (as it often can in a place like this), I pictured the entire roof collapsing in on us, left with no way out. Luckily, this did not happen, but could be a real risk I suppose. Other sections of the cave sparkled with silver another wonderment of mother nature.

In the end, we made it out! We navigated back through the twists and turns, left relived and invigorated. Another adventure is under our belts and in our hearts.

Kayaking on the Ocean

Adventure #2

We had an amazing time exploring the Kealakekua Bay on our new to us kayak, “Phreedom”. Her maiden journey was tremendous. We had the good fortune of seeing spinner dolphins, who at times would gracefully rise just above the surface, their top fin peeking out as their airholes breath puffs of air. At other times these dolphins made tremendous leaps out of the ocean and spun sporadically completely out of the water, until they made their awkward belly-flop back into the ocean with a splash. You can not help but smile at the sight of this, and I can only imagine how fun it must be for the dolphins. Although scientist are still unsure why they do it, I imagine it is a joyful jump.

The winds and waves remained calm, a welcomed respite from the mighty winds of Kohala. As we continued to leisurely paddle, the journey took us out to the famed Captain Cook monument where it is said this famed explorer first landed in Hawaii.

On the return trip, all of the other kayakers quickly made their way back to land, a race against the clock to return their rentals. This left us alone on the water, peaceful and calm. It was remarkable to have such a popular bay all to ourselves, completely serene. This was easily one of the most magical experiences I have had on this island and I am deeply grateful for this adventure!

Waimea Ocean Film Festival

Adventure #1

This is not one of those death-defying, fear-inducing adventures, but it was certainly an adventure none-the-less. What made it an adventure? It was something I have never done before, outside of my normal routine, an opportunity to try something new. At first, I had my reservations. Generally, I am not a movie goer, rarely seeing films at all, but was drawn in by the allure of trying something new.

For four days there were movies playing from 9 am to 9pm in four different theatres. These films presented incredible, jaw-dropping cinematography. Interwoven with these stunning scenes were story-lines that unfolded in ways that left the audience aghast, thinking more deeply, and contemplating issues that arise in ecosystems across the planet. This included documentaries shot over dramatic landscapes from Antarctica to Austria, the island of Hawaii to oceans around the world. These films featured culture, wildlife, and epic adventures. I left each film feeling amped, educated, and inspired. I was deeply moved.

One movie that truly left me stunned was “Apollo 11”. This was a wild card for a ecologically minded film festival. Space exploration really doesn’t excite me and again-I almost did not go. At the last minute I decided to join my friends in the theater and check it out. I really wasn’t expecting to be thrilled in anyway, I mean we all know how it ends: Apollo 11 makes it to the moon and back. Unexpectedly, I was on the edge of my seat the entire time and later found myself talking excitedly to anyone who would listen. This was a shoick for me. It was something far out of my out atmosphere and my normal interests-until now. This led to a broadening of my own interests and that is truly the spirit of adventure- a leap that leads to growth and expansion of the human experience. It also opened my mind into what is possible, despite the odds.

This theme repeated throughout the festival through deep dives into unknowns, and excursions that explored of new territories never seen before. In full length documentaries spanning topics from ocean fish to orca whales, from cowboys riding wild mustangs to surfers riding the biggest waves on the planet. I continued to explore to new worlds through the works of some of the best film crews, writers, and producers on the planet.

There were often opportunities for Q+A with filmmakers, which shed light into the process of filmmaking and a deeper dive into the stories of the films.

*Pro-tip: you can volunteer for festivals and it gets you a free pass. (This is exactly what we did.)

Being at this festival also allowed me to explore new places on the island. It was luxurious to spend time at the plush Fairmont Orchid. It was a glorious sunny day, perfect for exploring the historic fish ponds and new beaches. A sea turtle graced the shore, and the water left me delightfully refreshed.

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Back in the Fairmont, pictured below-this was a life-size inflatable whale that you could actually walk inside of! There were also NOAA presentations and art displayed that was made out of trash from the ocean. All of these were also part of the Film Festival.

This experience revealed not only many challenges the earth is facing, but also viable solutions. It illuminated the power of the human spirit and mindset. It opened my world into fresh experiences that brought about bliss and joys. Maybe I am a movie goer after all. I am absolutely thrilled for this incredible opportunity, to share it with good friends, and meet some new friends along the way.

What is an adventure?

“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing”-Helen Keller

People have often asked, “What is an adventure?”.

This is a fairly simple, yet profound experience. I define an adventure as trying something I have never done before.

In 2018 I set out to try 100 adventures in one year. This spanned from things as simple as trying a new recipe to traveling to foreign countries. This year, I am trying it again. I am aiming to try 100 new things in 2020.

Whenever adventure calls, it pushes the limits of my own capabilities, challenging me to push through doubts and fears. A new experience may also be more gentle, yet powerful. This may be simply discovering an unexpected joy, a different hobby, uncovering a bliss to chase. No matter the adventure, it fuels my spirit, sending me rocketing into new dimensions of life. These experiences show me strengths I never knew I had, opens my eyes to new opportunities in what seems to be limitless possibilities.

Seeking 100 adventures in one year is a sure-fire way to steer clear of stagnation, to break out of the everyday normal routines of life that seem to trap us so easily, and leads us to live a dynamic life. I am deeply grateful for the experiences I have had, look forward to see what the new year brings and sharing it with you with joy and love.

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