Mauna Kea

Adventure # 6

The highest point in Hawaii, the volcano Mauna Kea, towers at 14,00 feet above sea level.

My partner Chris and I make our way up and over Saddle Road. Looking towards the mountain we only see a pile of dense clouds, wrapping up the volcano if it has gone to bed for the night. I remain optimistic. Weather changes rapidly there, and you can never really tell what the mountain will bring. We meet up with our friend Becky in Waimea. Here the debate begins. Is it worth it to risk altitude sickness, climbing 14,000 feet, and driving for hours to see only clouds? My partner is wavering, saying it isn’t worth the risk. Becky seems far more optimistic, looking up weather and calling the park office. She reiterates that you really can’t tell what the visibility at the top is like looking up from the bottom. To truly know, we have to go see for ourselves. I agree and decide it is worth the chance to see the mountain covered in snow, watching an epic sunset from the summit. So Becky and I set off, on an adventure destined to the summit of Mauna Kea. We are fast friends with lots to talk about and the drive up to the park entrance seems to fly by. As we round the base, reaching the other side of the mountain, the sky completely clears and opens up to beautiful blue skies. Our eyes widen, opening to the clear view of the mountain that looms before us, just asking to be climbed. The truck turns up the entrance, quickly gaining elevation. Each twist and turn in the road brings us higher and higher up towards the sky. The view is astounding. In places there rests a layer of clouds. The sun dances on top of them, as we look down from above. In the distance, Mauna Lao, and Hualalai peek out as if to say hello. There are spaces where the view is crystal clear and even the valley floor is visible, houses and buildings now only disappearing specs. The view is endless, the horizon reaches farther than our eyes can see.

We stop at the visitor center to acclimate to the new elevation, resting at 9,000 feet. There are many people gathered here in a buzz of excitement. The air is drastically different, thin and cold. We bundle up in our winter jackets, hats, and pants. Becky and I enjoy hot cocoa and the solar telescope that is set up. Looking to the sun it becomes clear how alive it is, watching it move with solar flares and sunspots.

We clamber back into the truck and head to the summit. The road becomes rough, there are signs warning visitors that 4-wheel drive is necessary to proceed any further. Becky kicks the truck into gear and we lurch forward up the rocky road. We gawk at the astounding views, squealing with delight to be in such a magnificent place. The sun drops lower to kiss the clouds as we climb even higher towards the summit,rising above the clouds.

When we arrive, there is again a gathering of people eager to see this tremendous sunset. The sky ignites in a fiery spectacular that reaches in every direction. The sun’s last moments cast reds, oranges, pinks and purples across the horizon. A soft light reflects back to the horizon, painting the clouds purple, illuminating the snow with a pink glow.   The air is freezing, the wind whips across the summit, tingling my face and sending shivers down my spine. For a moment I forget that we are in Hawaii. We watch with bright eyes, and wide smiles, relishing in this moment.

The last rays of light seem to linger on for hours as we make our way back down the mountain. We talk excitedly about taking this leap of faith and catching this astonishing experience. It is so easy to bail out on your plans, to avoid trying new things. It is also just as simple to say yes, to try something new and unknown, to take a chance.

Back at the visitor center we take a walk away from the dim lights up to catch a glimpse of the natural night sky. Following a path that leads to the top of a pu’u, there are stars every which way you look at the night sky. The air has dropped in degrees, but our excitement level has increased yet again. We stumble in the darkness to find a shelter made of rocks piled in a circle. It is the perfect place to lounge under the stars, protected from the elements. Becky is well prepared and presents us with sushi, seaweed rice crackers and thinly sliced provolone cheese; a delectable dinner for the mountain side. We continue to talk effortlessly, delighting in these delicious delicacies. Shooting stars zip across the night sky as we sit marveling in its beauty. Gratitude for a tremendous experience washes over me.

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